 |
 |
| PLAN YOUR
FENCE |
| |
|
Planning
your fence thoroughly is the easiest way to ensure
that your fencing project goes as smoothly and
economically as possible.
See our helpful pdf downloads
for brace/fence designs, planning guides, and
tips from Bill Daugherty, our president.
|
| A) |
Sketch out a map of your
property. Designate different land use areas—grazing
acreage, pens, cultivated fields, etc. If possible,
get aerial images of your property to use as the
base of your sketch. You can get aerial photography
from the U.S. Soil Conservation service, your local
agricultural extension agent, or even online from
sources like Google Earth. |
| |
|
| B) |
Now sketch out your fence
lines, corners, angles, and gates to scale with
your land use map. Don’t forget to take into
consideration natural obstacles like cliffs, streambeds
or other dips in the projected path of the fence.
Always avoid water gaps if at all possible. Think
about the optimum placement of gates for the best
vehicle/animal access. Plan ahead for possible facilities
expansions and feeding areas. |
| |
|
| In planning your
fence layout, remember: |
| |
|
| |
- All fences require
end braces, regardless of length.
- Post center spacing
should be 20-25 feet for high-tensile wire,
and 12-16 feet for low-tensile. Post centers
are a guideline, not an exact science.
- Use rigid posts in
all dips, hips (bumps), and ledges.
- A combination of line
bosses and tee posts will give the best results.
- If there is a possiblity
that other fence lines will connect to the fence
in the future, place end posts for the connecting
fence now.
- Don’t set gates
perpendicular to the fence line. If a gate must
be perpendicular, use a gate foot.
- Gates must have close
tolerances, and set them so that they swing
back against the fence, not through. Plan for
equipment height in facilities if you use an
overhead gate.
|
|